Let’s All Go to the Playa – Winter Escape to the Riviera Maya

Portland is not known as a city that handles the cold and snow well. In fact the scene after a foot of snow hit the ground in January could be aptly described as chaos.

Abandoned cars, a derailing of a light rail train, school closures, business closures, and lots of power outages. However outside it was absolutely beautiful with stunning winter snowscapes, kids sledding, cross country skiers swooshing by and snow men and snow forts being built.

But I have to say that after a week we were ready to see it go. Northerners and other citizens of chilly climates you can have that character building weather.

When the weather gets cold the birds fly south, and being an Oregon Duck it was obviously time to fly down south to Mexico for a little fun in the sunshine. So we traded in this:

For this:

I know Mexico isn’t for everyone but I’ve been there over a dozen times and other than a hangover of my own making and an occasional sour stomach I have never had an issue. Oh wait – there was that time I parked illegally and had my car towed – again my fault.

The people are warm and friendly, we feel very safe (with a few precautions), and the food, both Mexican and ethnic, is outstanding. One of my favorite things about Mexico is how colorful everything is.

14 days on this trip and I can report one cloudy day and one evening of pounding rain but otherwise sunny weather in the 80’s, warm ocean water and an exchange rate that is highly favorable to the dollar.

Cigars are a very good buy!

The dollar to peso exchange rate is almost 22 to 1. Three years ago when I was here it was about 14 to 1. I picked up a six pack of Corona for the room and it cost me less than three dollars. Full meals out with drinks for two are running around $30 or less. Of course you can spend a lot more if you want but it is not necessary to do that to get a fine meal.

Playa Del Carmen (PDC) and Tulum are our escapes this year. I’ve been to the Cancun area a half of dozen times but have never spent a minute in Cancun and many people tell me I’m not missing out. Instead we beeline down the coast to PDC or Cozumel or further down the Riviera Maya to Tulum. I know there are beautiful beaches and mega resorts in Cancun and that’s all some people are looking for but I like a little taste of Mexico when I am in Mexico.  One bit of Mexican culture that I especially like as a photographer is the observance of Dia de Muertos (Day of the Dead) and the artistic celebration of the skull and skeleton which can be seen all around Playa Del Carmen.

Another cultural highlight around PDC and the Yucatán Peninsula is the ancient Mayan culture. There are several outstanding ruin sites in the area and restaurants specializing in or serving Mayan dishes are easily found. And you can see people in period costume posing for pictures or performing traditional dances to keep the culture alive as pictured below.

Even Playa Del Carmen is getting a bit too “westernized” for my tastes especially along the main thoroughfare of Avenida Quinta. The first time that we came to PDC we had to walk on the beach schlepping our luggage for about 100 yards just to get in the entrance and to the reception for our hotel. Fast forward to my next visit nine years later and there was a full blown mall including a Victoria’s Secret on what was once quaint little Avenida Quinta. Still I found on the trip three years ago and on this trip currently that if you go a couple of avenues over or to the end of Avenida Quinta that the prices change and the locals have their restaurants and shops that are worlds apart from the malls, souvenir shops, and restaurant chains overtaking the main drag.

Of course some of the Westernization is all in good fun.

What to do during a week in PDC and Tulum? You can certainly eat and drink extremely well. Laying in the sun by the pool or on a powdery white sand beach – that’s always nice. Maybe read a good book? Here are a few suggestions for some other fun things to do.

Swim with the turtles at Akumal beach. We saw over a dozen turtles grazing on the sea grass seemingly unconcerned by all the snorkelers swimming about and taking photos. Remember – no touching the turtles.

Akumal Beach

Take the ferry to Cozumel and wander around. It is just a quick ferry ride from PDC to Cozumel and if you Scuba it is the place to go.

Go visit Cenote Jardin de Eden or one of the other nearby cenotes.

Play golf at one of the outstanding golf courses. The courses are pretty empty and you can get tee times and greens fee discounts at websites like TeeTime or GolfNow.

This course features a Cenote hazard on the 1st fairway.

Visit one of the outstanding Mayan ruins like Tulum, Chichen Itza, or Coba.

Visit one of the Eco-resorts like Xcarat, Xel-Ha, Xplor Park or Rio Secreto or better still visit the UNESCO Heritage site of Sian Ka’an.

I could watch the pelicans dive for fish all day

Charter a fishing boat or just cast out a net.

Here are some restaurants I can recommend in Playa Del Carmen and Tulum for good food. Always call first to see if they are open.

Playa del Carmen
La Brocherie – French, specializing in roast chicken. Nice owners.
La Famiglia – Italian, good pizza.
La Parilla – Traditional Mexican.
Babes Noodles and Bar – Thai and other noodles, great drinks.
Trattoria Pizzaria Romeo – Italian.
Chez Celine – French casual, good breakfasts
Tulum
Pizzaria Manglar – Italian, good pizza
El Camello Jr. – this is the place for seafood
Don Cafeto – Good food, music in the late evening
Taqueria La Eufemia – great beach vibe and tacos

Adios Amigos!