View of the entire site with the Pyramid of the Sun on the left.
I’m fascinated by ancient civilizations – I like looking at their tools and artwork and learning about their culture. I like seeing the houses, monuments, and cities they built. My wife and I didn’t set out to follow in the footsteps of Indiana Jones or anything and I wouldn’t categorize us as archaeology buffs at all. We have just traveled here and there and along the way we have managed to visit some of the outstanding ancient sites in the world. So when we read that the ancient pyramids of Teotihuacan were an easy day trip from Mexico City we figured it was worth a visit.
The massive Pyramid of the Sun.
Without any in-depth knowledge of ancient civilizations to rely upon we pretty much rely on the “Wow! factor” of a place – as in does visiting a site impress the heck out of us and make us think “Wow! that was really cool!” I really wasn’t expecting to be that impressed by Teotihuacan (tuffy to pronounce: Tay-oh-tee-wah-cun) – I figured I’d already seen some pretty impressive pyramids in Egypt and I had been to pryamids at Chichén Itzá and Cobá in Mexico and Tikal in Guatamala – all very impressive ancient sites with plenty of Wow! factor. I just hadn’t heard much about Teotihuacan so my expectations were low. But when we got off the bus and looked down the broad roadway called the Avenue of the Dead and saw the massive Pyramid of the Sun it was a definite Wow!
This is a pyramid you are allowed to climb and so 245+ steps later I found myself huffing and puffing at the top. It’s not a long climb, but it is steep and some of the steps are a bit uneven. I’m going to blame the 7000 foot altitude for the rest stops I needed (I told myself it was to stop to take pictures). Once you get up to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun you really grasp just how enormous it is. The Pyramid of the Sun was completed in the year 100 AD and it measures 738 feet (225 meters) across and 246 feet (75 meters) high. That makes it the third largest pyramid in the world by area even though it is still just over half the height of the Great Pyramid of Giza.
The Pyramid of the Moon as seen from the top of the Pyramid of the Sun.
The archaeological site is located in what is now the San Juan Teotihuacán municipality and lies approximately 25 miles northeast of Mexico City – it took our bus about 40 minutes to get there. The entire site covers an area of 32 square miles and it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. It is the most visited archaeological site in Mexico, receiving over 4 million visitors in 2017.
The early history of Teotihuacan is quite mysterious and the origin of its founders is uncertain. Around 300 BC, people of the central and southeastern area of Mesoamerica began to gather into larger settlements. The city at Teotihuacan became the largest urban center of Mesoamerica before the Aztecs arrived almost 1000 years later. The city was already in ruins by the time of the Aztecs.
The steps were steep and uneven but there was a rope to hold onto if needed.
When the Aztecs arrived they believed the structures and pyramids were tombs, hence the naming of the main thoroughfare as “The Avenue of the Dead”. The four kilometer long avenue is lined with impressive ceremonial structures in addition to the immense Pyramid of the Sun. At the far end lies the also very large Pyramid of the Moon which you are allowed to climb to a midpoint for a nice perspective over the whole site.
Along the Avenue are several smaller stair-stepped structures which scholars believe were ceremonial platforms that were topped with temples.
This blue bellied lizard put on quite a head bobbing dance indicating his displeasure at being photographed at close range.
The colorful Puma Mural is found under a shelter on the Avenue of the Dead.
Further down the Avenue of the Dead lies the Palace of Quetzalpapalotl. The palace has a brightly painted interior and beautifully carved pillars – some with decorative inlaid obsidian.
The intricately carved pillars of the Palace of Quetzalpapalotl.
Also found at Teotihuacan is a well done museum preserving some of the artifacts that were found at the site.
Artifacts from the Teotihuacan Museum - Click image to enlarge
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If you go, be sure to wear a hat and comfortable shoes and bring sunscreen and water since there is little shade to be found. There is food at the site but it is also a pleasant place to bring a picnic and contemplate the mystery builders of Teotihuacan and the Aztecs who claimed the city a 1000 years later.