A Monument to the Wild West

I’ve wanted to see Monument Valley since way back when I was just a snot-nosed little kid watching John Wayne westerns. The scenery looked so cool to me even then – the towering rocks, the sweeping vistas, and the hero riding off on a dusty trail into a glorious sunset.

(A reminder: If you click on these pictures they will enlarge.)

There is a 3.5 mile loop trail called the Wildcat Trail around West Mitten Butte pictured here.

Our road trip in our trusty camper van took us from Scottsdale through the Tonto National Forest (which on our route seemed to have more cacti than trees) and then to the stark, windswept landscape of the Petrified Forest National Park. We toured around the Petrified Forest and spent the sunset and night at another picturesque spot – The Canyon de Chelly National Monument. 

Snow was sprinkled on the highest buttes and mesas.

After a leisurely breakfast we headed out towards Monument Valley. As we approached we could see threatening clouds in the distance and in this wide open country you can see for miles. 

This rock formation was called Church Rock – so named for its cathedral like appearance.

We were on a high plateau at 5,000 feet with some amazing rock formations interrupting the mostly flat landscape.

Just a few miles from Monument Valley we passed Agathla Peak which rises up 1500 ft. from just off of U.S. Route 163.

As the valley came into view a storm came whipping through and soaked everything with a heavy rain for an hour and then just as abruptly stopped. The rain dramatically changed the color of the soil and rock formations to a deep burgundy red.

I don’t have the words to describe how incredibly beautiful Monument Valley is to my eyes. I’m just glad that film is free in the digital world because I would have spent a fortune in film and developing costs.

Bronze sculpture of a Navajo Family at the entrance to Monument Valley.

Monument Valley is squarely in the middle of The Navajo Nation which means it is not actually a U.S. National Park but if it were, it would rank in the top 5 on my list for its raw, natural beauty.

The North Window viewpoint features a couple of huge buttes perfectly framing a view north to the lower valley.

During the rain we checked into our RV site, grabbed some lunch and then headed to the official entrance of the Monument Valley Tribal Park. By then the water from the heavy rain had soaked into the usually dusty ground and the sun was peeking through the clouds.

A late afternoon shot taken from the Visitor Center overview.

Most of the 250,000 visitors a year come in the summer and so our mid-March arrival meant the crowds were sparse, the 17 mile Valley Drive was empty, and no reservations were needed at the RV Park. But the March weather was a bit chilly and windy as we approached the gate to pay the $20 per vehicle (up to four people) to enter the park for 24 hours. 

The Monument Valley Tribal Park covers 92,000 acres crossing the border of Arizona and Utah. While you can see some of the valley from the public roads you should definitely pay the fee and drive the 17 mile Valley Drive. We had heard warnings about the 17 mile drive requiring a 4 wheel drive vehicle because of severe potholes and so we were a little worried about our van being able to navigate the steep entrance. But for us the road was not an issue and I would have felt safe taking any standard sized car on the drive at a slow speed and with steering carefully around a few potholes. 
 

The three spires at the left are called the “Three Sisters” and is said to look like a nun facing her two pupils.

The Navajo words for Monument Valley translate to “valley of the rocks” and being right next to these red sandstone “monuments”  that soar 100 to 1500 feet above the valley floor is an awesome experience.
 

This is the stunning view from the viewpoint named after John Ford who used Monument Valley as a setting for many of the famous Westerns he directed.

And I really shouldn’t be saying these “monuments” rise up or soar into the sky as though pushed up from the earth’s floor – in reality it is just the opposite – these dramatic formations are the result of erosion – wind and water – slow and steady. And this erosion is still at work today.
 

This balanced rock in the middle of the Valley Drive is one of the smaller monuments in the valley but still bigger than my van.

Along the Valley Drive there are several viewpoints where you can get out and take in the grandeur of your surroundings. There is an easy, 3.5 mile hiking trail that wraps around the west mitten but otherwise hiking is not permitted without an official Navajo guide. On our visit it was a bit too cold and windy to venture on the hike but if we return we will certainly take that trail.
 

These spires represent the last stages of the erosion process. The tallest spire is called the “Totem Pole”.

After our spin around the Valley Drive we headed up to the spectacular view from the parking lot where you can also find a restaurant, gift shop, The View Motel, and a visitor center.  Then we waited for the fireworks, as in the explosion of colors as the sun set at our backs and lit up the monuments in the burnt orange glow of dusk.

As the sun set behind us the shadows began to creep across the valley.

Monument Valley is more than a little off the beaten path. It is 320 miles and a 5 hour drive from Phoenix and nearest major airport. You can combine it with a trip to the Grand Canyon or do the loop we did through Petrified Forests National Park, Canyon de Chelly, Lake Powell and Sedona.

In Navajo legend a spell was cast on the dangerous beasts in the valley and the spell turned the beasts to stone. Those stones are the towering rock formations that stretch across Monument Valley.

The Navajo word for home is Hogan. This is a hogan near the visitor center. These dwellings are made of clay and Juniper tree.

The brochure you are given upon entrance to the Tribal Park says on the cover: “Welcome to the 7th Wonder of Navajoland – Where the Earth Meets the Sky” which I thought was a pretty good description.

 

Then the sun went down and it got very dark – later the stars came out in full force. And if we didn’t know we were in the Navajo Nation before, we were reminded when we found out at the local store that the nearest place to buy alcohol was 30 miles away in the town of Mexican Hat. Luckily we had reserves in the van!
 

The silhouetted view of the monuments as we approached the overview at sunrise.

I was so psyched to see the sunrise that I didn’t need the alarm to wake me. As we drove the 5 miles from our RV site to the overlook we could see the glow of the sun rising in the east. Several other brave souls were out with me in the nippy morning dawn to await the first morning rays.
 
A whole generation of movie-goers associate the wild west with Monument Valley because of classic western movies that were filmed here like The Searchers, Stagecoach, My Darling Clementine, She Wore a Yellow Ribbon, and Fort Apache. Many of the movies starred John Wayne and were directed by John Ford.
 
Other generations of movie-goers have still had glimpses of Monument Valley because it pops up in scenes in popular films like Easy Rider, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, Mission Impossible 2, Thelma & Louise, Eiger Sanction, 2001 A Space Odyssey, The Lone Ranger, Once Upon a Time in the West, How the West was Won, National Lampoon’s Vacation, A Million Ways to Die in the West, Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them and many more. Remember when Tom Hanks as Forrest Gump stops running after 2 years? That scene was filmed in Monument Valley.
 
The constant variations of the valley colors due to the light conditions and weather  give Monument Valley an ever-changing beauty. John Wayne called it God’s treasure and I have to agree with the Duke.
 

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